The International Writers Magazine: HACKTREKS ARCHIVE 6 2011-2012

EUROPA

ASIA

AMERICAS

Veni, Vidi, Vinci Zara Nelson Tuscany always has a surprise up its sleeve, and Vinci is one of the most pleasant surprises you could hope to have. Balaton Breeze John M Edwards When I arrived at Lake Balaton with my girlfriend, we were in a quandary about where to stay In Modern Venice Kim McKechney Our gondolier sported a thick handlebar moustache worthy of the Village People.  A thin cigarette dangled dangerously from his mouth, hanging so loosely it seemed to brazenly flout the laws of physics Made in Madeira John M Edwards Madeira is not only an island and a drink, but also  a state of mind, John M. Edwards discovers on a serendipitous bar crawl through what he initially deemed mere fortified “cooking” wines Guilt Free Glutony Walking & Wine in Montepulciano Aaron Millar Southern Tuscany is undoubtedly one of the most gastronomically satisfying places on earth. Secrets of the Vatican Michelle Lynch I’m driving around in Rome, which is a nightmare under the best of circumstances, but when you’re trying to make a circle to get back to the right street and most of the city is limited to local traffic, you feel like pulling out your hair Sissi lives on in Vienna’s Heart Melissa Bird-Collado Austria must be one of the smaller XXI century European countries. But Vienna, its capital, is covered by a royal hallo that will always remind visitors that less than 200 years ago it was an Empire of nine kingdoms. The Glacier Express Donna B. Cueto My brief escapade in the country known for its Alps and plateau was a mere side trip from my one month vacation in Germany last August Danish Daydreams Fredric Hamber When I think of the Danish I think of mathematicians—and mermaids: twin strains of rationality and romanticism Bulgaria: Wine, Women, Song and snacks Lyn Fuchs I found little there except succulent food, tasty wine, soulful music, and attractive women Broken Car in Kreti Melina Lake  I can’t help but be pleased when Jorgos’ attempt to drive my rented Fiat onto his tow truck platform fails miserably Tribal Encounters in Ethiopia’s Omo Valley Linda Barghoorn Ethiopia’s Omo Valley lies just 300 miles southwest of the frantic, pulsing capital of Addis Ababa, but it might just as well be on another planet. Obidos Alan Dale The massive medieval walls suddenly overshadowed the flat farmland, chillingly suggesting their having moved when I wasn’t looking. That was nothing compared to Obidos’s next assault on my senses. Streets of Valletta Dene Bebbington Valletta is a cosy, walkable capital city. Located on the Sciberras peninsula, it's just a mile from the city gates to Fort St Elmo overlooking two natural harbours its sandwiched between. Buona Pasqua! Leah Depue Before taking the tiny, jam-packed bus from Sorrento to Positano, passengers should consider writing a will before boarding. My four day adventure around the Sorrento area included some of Italy’s most beautiful cities. Share strawberries in Berlin Marianne de Nazareth Discover Berlin in Springtime Abrasively American Margaret Banker My senior spring break found me not in some Caribbean Island, or roaming the seas on a cruise-liner, but friend-hopping through the UK, visiting pals pursuing levels of education much beyond my ambition. Turkey Day John M Edwards I was going to write about haggling with friendly, aggressive Turkish merchants over carpets and kilims, amidst endless rounds of little glasses of thé du menthe–until I realized everyone else had already exhausted this topic. ROULETTE ROUE John M. Edwards meets a local playboy and friendly angel in Monaco, addicted to the casino gaming tables Stork Storm over Santiago De Compostela John M. Edwards travels the 500-mile Christian pilgrimage route of “El Camino de Santiago de Compostela” (St. James Way)—only to end up surviving an angry divebombing storm of storks! Hidden Venice: That Sinking Feeling Tom James Tom James find tourism replaced by dirty evil pigeons in the Piazza San Marco. Dublin and The Avoca Weavers Marianne de Nazareth Three leaved Shamrocks, Leprechauns, faries and elves. I had grown up with warm hearted Irish missionaries, who ran our catholic schools in India..   A Bike Tour of Amsterdam Tania Jachens Despite my tour guide’s warning, I looked away from the bike in front of me for just a moment.  I had turned my head to admire the idyllic lane along which we peddled, recognizing the scene from a postcard I had purchased earlier The Next Big Backpacker Destinations Tom Coote Backpackers have traditionally been at the vanguard of tourism. The more adventurous budget travellers will often go to the sort of places that remain untouched by posh resorts and package deals. Discover Northampton Joanna Snow I found so much interest on my journey round the hidden corners of this beautiful county What Lies Beneath Brett Longstaff in Paris Not knowing really what to expect, I read the inscription upon the stone portal on entry; “Arrete, c’est  ici  l’empire de la mort.” City-Pick Amsterdam: the city, the guidebook Chris Mills We took a trip last month to Amsterdam. It was to be a brief taster of all that the city has to offer if one only had a bit more time to spend there. Besancon: Victor Hugo Saleem Ayoub Quna The surprising pleasantness of Hugo's birthplace was a delight Basque Case : Separation Anxiety in the Pyrenees John M. Edwards A merry little trip to the Basque Country, an autonomous utopia containing a bit of both France and Spain is like trying to find the original site of the Garden of Eden, which Basques claim might be hidden in their unrecognized “country”: Euskadi! The Summer of '72 - As the MIA Crashing Perth’s Freebie New Years Eve Party in Australia John M Edwards A New Years Eve Party in Perth, one of the best places to celebrate the turning of the calendar page on the planet! Borrowed geography can cause trouble Saleem Ayoub Quna As I was packing for my vacation in Sharm Al-Sheikh, one item on my must-do list was clearly underlined; See the straits of Tiran at the mouth of the Gulf of Aqaba	Beirut in the Baltics The Wild Wild East Europe John M Edwards After the collapse of communism in the USSR, inflation in the freshly minted Baltic republics of Latvia, Lithuania, and Estonia rolled up the ruble into the cheapest toilet paper around, so I decided to go East and stock up. Mysore Maharajas Marianne de Nazareth It was a spur of the moment decision to take a break in Ooty, in the newly refurbished summer palace of the Maharaja of Mysore – his highness Srikanta Datta Narasimha Raja Wadiyar Bahadur the 26th Maharaja of Mysore in South-India. Turkmenbashi’s Land of Fairy Tales Tom Coote I got lost on my way to the land of fairy tales. I had confidently followed the road to the Promised Land, only to find that it led to ruins. Tearing Up the Silk Road by Tom Coote Publisher: Garnet Publishing Sam North review Tom Coote set himself a target of going the whole distance of the ancient Silk Road by public transport in just nine weeks... one needs determination and fortitude and a very stong stomach - and that's just for the many scary toilets experienced on the way. Visiting Uncle Ho David Calleja Hanoi at 7am is buzzing. The narrow streets near Hoan Kiem Lake are alive with the sound of civilian life revving at full throttle View from the Clouds Blair Biersbach The ever jubilant, Mickey Mouse, a neon green leaf and a misspelled quote from “The Sound of Music” stared up at me from my dirty, worn out journal. Kolad Escape Jitendra Bhojwani If you are fed up of rushing, maddening city life, if too much of polluted air has started blocking your lungs and you want to head for some peaceful abode then think no further! Just Go to Kolad! How to find a restaurant in Vietnam John M. Edwards In imperial Hué, Vietnam, “ethnic eats” expert John M. Edwards alights upon a café not located in the Lonely Planet guide Koh Commotion: Mister Friendly John M Edwards Off the coast of Thailand, John M. Edwards deems it a beautiful day for a ferry sinking, so grab an orange life saver and say your prayers Jaipur: The Royal City Jiten Bhoi The very name of Jaipur is synonymous to Royal City with a host of Palaces, Forts, Temples, Museums and everything that is related to the Royal Past. Though the modernity is spreading very rapidly, there certainly are places where the charm and elegance of Royal Days is still very much visible Petra Piotr Wesolowski I shall return here tomorrow, I promise to myself.  I shall take one last glimpse of the awe inspiring Al-Khazneh.  Meeting Elvis in Vietnam David Calleja When an elephant’s name is inspired by the legendary Elvis Presley, you can’t help falling in love with the beast The Honeymoon Hunter of Dalat Phillip Donnelly Dalat is thought of fondly by most Vietnamese, in no small part because this is where they usually spend their honeymoons First 24 Hours in China Fiona Marion Between the four of us, we carried a year's worth of goods through the narrow, lively streets of old Hong Kong. Jodhpur; City Of Surprises David Russell In search of a good meal The Cook Islands, Raratonga, Tahiti & Aitutaki. David Russell The Island’s prime function served as a canoe stop on the way to New Zealand In the heart of the Hindu universe Mark Hutchinson Uma Shankar was the only person in the whole train station who was not sweating aggressively Riyadh Sketches Marwan Asmar There is a feeling of dilettantism expressed in its urbanism sprawl, society and structure. The Most luxurious train in the world Elizabeth Schotten Merklinger From Cape Town to Pretoria in style Pleasing Our Palates in Palau Jane Cassie Japanese bentos, spicy Asian, all-American; Palau’s multi-ethnic cuisine is pleasing to any foodie’s palate and is a direct offshoot of this tiny nation’s culture and past. Caodai Calling John M Edwards I had come all the way to Vietnam to investigate a weird supernatural religion called Caodaism, an attempt to fuse the ideal faith, “a universal religion,” from a potboiled spiritual pho centered on Spritism Rainwater Ceremony Song David Calleja Today is a very important day in the history of Tropangs Dok village, for the concept of rain and its decision to grace its presence over the village will be honoured with a song How to breathe life into the Dead Sea Saleem Quna Who owns the Dead Sea? Who controls what pours in it or what is subtracted from it? Who is entitled to decide its present and future? Why do we care about it? The Arab Spring: Inspiration for Writers & Artists - Dee Mason For as long as we've had conflict, we've had people to document it ________________________ A Sanka in St Petersburg John M Edwards An eye-opening experience in Cold War Russia - Interested in finding the St. Petersburg salon where the protagonist of Doestoevsky’s Notes from the Underground is snubbed and ridiculed by his friends, I set off for that fair city sometime in the springtime, I believe. Metro Mania Brittany Pietrunti « Attention a la marche, en descendant du train » French phrase for “Please mind the gap”. The animated voice blares through the speakers of the metro yet still manages to retain the sweet seductiveness inherent in the French language.  Castro Urdiales, Cantabria Gretta Schifano The Guggenheim is one reason to visit the Spanish Cantabrian coast, but snorkelling in the Atlantic was a surprise. As I floated face down in the water two metres from the beach I watched a huge shoal of silvery fish speeding along in the current below me Durham Eleanor Ross Durham’s crooked grey streets, stone castle and slow paced river attract coachloads of tourists every year. Lonely Planet’s ‘Thousand Things to do Before You Die’ book cites Durham as a top destination for visitors to Britain. Morocco Sahara Odyssey Charlotte Temple Morocco is a country filled with history, fabulous food, incredible scenery, warm and friendly people and a little bit of mystery tossed in for good measure. This was my 13th Overseas Adventure Travel trip, and it ranked as one of the best. Spreewald. Germany Norman Wolfer We never cease to be amazed at just how the Berlin/Brandenburg area excels in providing these historically significant and contemporary points of interest, within easy one day outings. Classical Elegance Nick Constance 8 days, 4 ships, 3 concerts and 7 locations –a magical musical tour through the French countryside A week in the Sticks Darren Skelton A log-cabin in the peak district on a farm in the middle of nowhere sounded like a winner. I didn't even have to “sell” the idea to my wife, who is petrified of the open out-doors. Unwind & relax in WindFlower Bandipur Marianne de Nazareth If you love birds, the jungle, fresh air and good food, pack a pair of binoculars, some shorts and tees and head out to Wind Flower Tusker Trails resort in Bandipur, in the South of India.	Meeting a Modern Day Che Ruby Weldon One tends to meet highly educated Cubans in the most unlikely places.  We were staying at a 'casa particular,' a Cuban bed and breakfast, in a small town known mostly for it's relaxed, convivial atmosphere.  A Drive to Brisbane John Finch We left on a typical cool, dismal Melbourne August day. The city and inner suburbs were closed in by drizzly low-lying grey Stratus clouds. São Miguel's Volcanic Lakes Dene Bebbington A picture in a brochure was all it took. I had to go and see the Sete Cidades caldera. Fraser Island Outrage Tom Coote Life on the bus and other stories Critter’s Control: My Latest Misadventure Sean O’Neill I could not escape; the slimy, hard-shelled, bug-like creature clamped onto my right thigh and would not let go. Tea Time in Africa Casey Hamilton in Mauritania It had been a long day. It must have been nearing midnight and we sat in the back of a pickup truck with a group of Taiwanese commercial fishermen. The town was quiet and ominous. News from Nowhere: Going Gonzo on the Gold Coast of Ghana John M Edwards John M. Edwards Battles Golf-Ball-Sized Bugs and Meets Seasoned Adventurers Skilled in the Art of Bad Trips Flying over Bora Bora Uri A. Jurist On May 14, I vanquished my fear of heights.  Staying Warm, Without Staying Dry in Denver Bobby Bingle I didn’t know where I should go or what I should do. I had just checked into an inexpensive hotel a block south of the 16th street mall in Denver Ups and Downs in Venezuela Stephanie Fleming I struggle through a crowd of people so thick I can’t see what I’m stepping on, as I drag my suitcases behind me.  Outaouais Quebec Habeeb Salloum If one is visiting Ottawa, Canada’s capital, across the Ottawa River is the Outaouais Region of Quebec. Spend a day amid its green rolling park hills Mexican adventure in a glass Michelle Maciejewska Suddenly thrown forward violently, but restrained by my seat belt from being propelled into the seat in front, my first thought was incongruously “For Christ’s sake, I don’t believe it.  Now I’m in a bus crash in Mexico!” The Sex Lives of Glowworms (Waitomo, New Zealand) John M. Edwards had no intention of conquering claustrophobia by going caving—until he remembered Pat Boone eating a giant mushroom in a Jules Verne film Where the Clear Creek Narrows Michael Chacko Daniels I try to get a glimpse of Pheneger Creek coursing among the giant trees of California’s central coast on Highway One Travels in Cuba - a cloak and dagger affair Ruby Weldon We wanted to see some Cuban countryside, so we decided to take a bus from Havana to Santa Clara, a trip of around 6 hours – give or take.  We'd been strongly advised to buy our tickets in advance.  Exiles from Cuba... Ruby Weldon We were standing on a dusty street corner in Celestun, a dozy and somewhat derelict village on the northern Gulf of Mexico side of the Yucatan Peninsula.  The side few tourists frequent, its beaches not as white, its waters not as azure, and its tourist amenities not as developed as the southern Caribbean side.  Tumbleweed Journey Mia Efantis Russian thistle is what drove me to the Grand Canyon this time. That big, bushy weed you’ve seen bouncing across the silver screen in old western films.  Mexican Zip-lining Tour Lauren Brunck As we zoom around the bend, kicking up dust from the dirt and gravel path, a tall edifice materializes through the foliage of the jungle. We slam on our breaks and dismount our bikes at the base of the tower ____________________________    Search this site or the web powered by FreeFind   Site search Web search _____________________ MORE EUROPA Packing for St. Petersburg Sasha Tomorrow I will be packing up my bags here in Prague and setting out on the next leg of my journey. For over 5 years I have been dreaming of traveling to Russia, and that dream is now within reach of reality.  Lalibela - Ethiopia Elizabeth Schotten Merklinger Nothing prepared me for the majesty of Ethiopia. I have always considered myself an intrepid traveler with quite a few unusual destinations under my belt from unknown Tibet to remote villages of Maharashtra.  But never have I felt such a sense of otherness as here.  Just Back : An African 'Ozymandius' John M. Edwards haggles recklessly over a uniquely carved wooden statue of the cowlicked comic-book hero Tintin at The Ivory Coast Arts Coop, perfect for smuggling diamonds or heroin. . . . A Legacy for Lake Como      Bill Gilpin Exploring Villa Balbianello Nice: A Cultural Divide John Welsh When it comes to eating and drinking, the cultures do not seem to merge. Jerash, A Roman Secret Marwan Asmar It's a truly amazing experience to sit and watch military scenes that resemble those you enjoyed watching in the “Gladiator” movie in Jerash Jordan. Bus Bribe Bobby Fox Still feeling the buzz from the Crimean wine we consumed at dinner, my fiancée and I headed to the bus stop in preparation of our 12-hour ride back Dnepropetrovsk. Egypt: A Revolutionary Welcome - Romina de Oliveira It was my first visit to an Arab country so I was a touch apprehensive, especially as I was a female travelling alone. Death, Debauchery and Desert: Africa’s Wild South-West Christopher Clark Until a couple of months ago I knew next to nothing about Namibia. I have since discovered that the same is true for most people outside of Germany (Namibia’s former colonial ruler) and those countries that share its borders. Singin' on the Love Boat Charles E J Moulton The cruise liner was my address for six months. My job was to sing and act in seven shows Istria in Croatia on wheels Paul-Christian Markovski We entered Croatia from the most northwestern border, where Italy, Slovenia and Croatia meet on the coastline by Trieste. Choosing Wine in France Paul-Christian Markovski I had a premonition that to buy wine in Lyon would be a different experience. And I was not let down Bach country in Leipzig, Germany Marianne de Nazareth Spring in Germany is definitely the best time to enjoy a trip to Germany. The trees are bright with fresh new foliage and the scent of flowers is everywhere. Newsletter from Marrakech – City of Contrasts  Patricia Lebaud Summer was even too hot for the birds to lift their wings Shooting Ubuntu David Beaumont Having paid the money for an afternoon and night in the townships with some trepidation,  I wonder whether I’ll be pleasantly surprised or just mortified? Wakhan Corridor Lev Wood For the past three or four years, the first intrepid adventurers have been enjoying the pristine remoteness of the Wakhan and the generous hospitality of the Wakhi and Kirgiz tribesmen Riding for Life Danny Bent Have you ever woken up with your hair and beard teeming with maggots? Have you ever felt the cold barrel of a semi automatic gun against your forehead? The Serai Kabini Marianne de Nazareth If you are a bird watcher and a wildlife enthusiast, look no further! The Serai Kabini is a cut above the rest for a weekend spent watching your feathered and furry friends. Wild Boys in South East Asia Ted O’Connor I’ve just spent the past five weeks in Vietnam, Thailand and Laos. I’ll provide you with the highlights of a twenty year old romping about a beautiful part of the world with four of his best mates.

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