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Dreamscapes Two
More Fiction |
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The International Writers
Magazine:
Mexico - Travel Archives
Restoration
Dermot Sullivan in Mexico
My
school year has been rather stressful for reasons best left unspecified.
I was to finish work here on the 6th of July but as I wont
be here for the next academic year (which starts in August in Mexico)
I finished last Saturday! I shall tour around the south of Mexico
next, hopefully going to Oaxaca, Chiapas and the Yucatán
Peninsula. My flight back home is on the 30th of July, whereupon
I should be working teaching foreign kids from the 1st of August.
After that the future is somewhat up in the air.
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A few weeks ago I was sitting reading when I turned my gaze to the top
of the book. What should be sitting there but a friendly scorpion! He
was only a small fellow but I didnt hang around to get acquainted
as I jumped to the other side of the room. The little scorpion then scurried
away, never to be found again. In fact, my place seems to be crawling
with small spiders at the moment. I suppose its the time of year,
just as September is full of daddy long-legs back at home. As long as
the spiders dont get any bigger then everything shall be fine
I wonder if any of them are poisonous
The weather after Easter was intensely hot, but come June and July it
cooled. Being in the mountains makes the weather somewhat unusual, but
now we have entered the wet season. The most amazing weather Ive
ever seen has been in Mexico, from incredible lightning, hail and thick,
thick rain to blistering heat and humidity. When I woke up two Sundays
ago I saw an overcast sky that belonged to Grimsby in October! The idea
that Ive been missing the dreadful weather at home isnt exactly
true, but then my winter months and Easter were a hell of a lot better
than they would have been in Folkestone!
During my two week break for Easter I was able to travel around Mexico
and see some more of the country. It seems like such a long time ago now
as I have been so busy since then. I had long suspected that the town
where I live (Pachuca) was an unfair representation of Mexico and my holiday
was the proof of the pudding! It has restored my faith in the country
as well, as has talking to some people outside of the school.
You may remember my dislike of schools homenaje and the quasi-fascistic
flag waving and saluting. Well, it seems that the majority of Mexicans
outside of the school with whom Ive spoken have similar feelings.
Many of them described it as false nationalism, which is probably
the reason that the students sing the bellicose national anthem so listlessly
as one might think that the participants were dead or in a coma.
Mexicans I have spoken to complain about the militarism of the homenaje,
but also of the military involving itself in daily matters in the life
of the country. When one travels across Mexico now there are military
checkpoints stopping cars, buses and trucks. The army is used to look
for drugs as one cant rely on the majority of Mexican police (with
a few notable exceptions). Its unfortunate that they cant
rely on elected politicians either so does that mean that they need to
draft in the guys in marching boots? One hopes not
anyhow, here
is a list of to where I went during Easter, city by city:
En Route To Veracrúz City:
Yet again I hit the road with my long suffering travelling companion,
Robert. I went to the south of Chile and the top part of Argentinean Patagonia
with him and this time the plan was to cross Mexico from the Gulf of Mexico
in the east to the Pacific Ocean in the west.
We both arose early on Palm Sunday in order to get an early bus to Mexico
City. I actually hadnt gone to bed that night so I could pack and
make it to the bus station on time! However, it was too early in the morning
and both of us were unable to get taxis. Also that night the clocks had
gone forward for Spring, robbing us of any possibility of sleep! We ended
up leaving from separate bus stations and making our own ways to Mexico
City. To get anywhere in the country from Pachuca one has to go via Mexico
City, a prospect I never relish.
The bus station at Mexico City was like a zoo. There were so many people
pushing and shoving trying to get to where they wanted to be for Holy
Week. Fortunately we had identification cards that showed us to be teachers:
during the school holidays teachers get discounts on bus travel! We got
up to 25% off on our tickets to Veracrúz City.
As Im used to crossing continents by bus I have developed the power
to switch off entirely on long-distance journeys. The standard of bus
in Latin America (in Mexico and Chile certainly) is much higher than back
at home (unless youre on one of those awful things in Peru where
people travel with their chickens) so its easy to fall asleep. With
our holiday battle cry of Somos Alegres I plunged headfirst
into a deep sleep, aided by the fact that the day before had been most
difficult and I had been up all night packing.
We changed at the City of Puebla, a place I may check out during my holidays
in July. Admittedly I was in a somnambulant stupor as we waited for our
bus but the layout of the bus terminal was strangest that Ive ever
seen! It seemed to be have designed by ants with interconnecting tunnels
that followed no logical pattern. My companion Rob likened it to deformed
conch shell! Modern architecture in Mexico is certainly daring and
is keen to develop its own style away from the European norm.
On the bus down to Veracrúz City I drifted in and out of consciousness,
but I was aware of the temperature rising and becoming distinctly more
humid. A glance out of the window revealed hills and mountains that seemed
to be covered in jungle-like vegetation. The most exciting of them all
though was seeing the coffee plantations in Veracrúz State around
Córdoba and Orizaba which stretched as far as the eye could see.
Veracrúz City:
Upon arrival in Veracrúz City I was greeted with a sign encouraging
me NOT to get Dengue Fever, something that I endeavoured to do! There
is no vaccine and no cure for the disease.
Veracrúz City is hot and humid and very much Caribbean. My previous
assertion that Mexicans were drab dressers had to be re-evaluated as there
was no shirt too loud for the local inhabitants (called Jarochos)! Our
hotel was right by the centre of town. Mexican towns usually come alive
on a Sunday evening when families come out and have fun. Robert and I
sat out and watched the people promenade and listen to the marimba players.
The city also seemed to be full of sailors in dress uniform as the Naval
College is based in Veracrúz City. Every sailor-boy was decked
out in white with a girl on his arm! It gave the place a rather humorous,
camp feel.
Veracrúz City is also the heart of the Mexican oil industry. As
Ive written before, there is only one oil company in Mexico: the
state-owned and notoriously corrupt and inefficient Pemex. It takes the
oil out of the ground but as Mexico has no refineries it has to give it
to the U.S. as crude and buy it back from them. Veracrúz City is
a huge port due to all the off-shore drilling platforms. The citys
promenade is extremely long where one can gaze out upon all manner of
ships and oil-related paraphernalia.
After retreating to our air-conditioned room we slept heavily. Our time
in the city was limited so we got up early and had a hearty breakfast
of some sort of spicy fish. The mission was then to find a boat that would
take us to Cancuncito a sand bank off the coast of the city and
get back in time for the bus that would take us to Xalapa.
We actually stumbled upon the boat in the end. It was a speed boat and
we were required to wear life-jackets. I had been in the Gulf of Mexico
before in 1989 on a family holiday to Florida. I remember clearly how
the sea was alive with every sort of fish imaginable. This time was exactly
the same and en route to Cancuncito I saw a giant manta ray leap out of
the sea! Though impressive its not the sort of thing you want to
bump into when youre in the water, as Steve Irwin would testify
to if he werent brown bread.
The sand bank was full of Mexican tourists splashing around in the sea
and fortunately there were only little fish swimming around our feet.
Nearby was an island that used to be a leper colony but either there wasnt
time to check it out or more likely it was just off-limits to us (I couldnt
understand what the tour guide was saying). Being completely surrounded
with water Robert and I got completely frazzled by the sun. Even though
I only had my t-shirt off for about fifteen minutes I still got burnt.
Xalapa:
After the jaunt out into the Gulf of Mexico we hurried back to the bus
station and went to the state capital Xalapa. Its a university town
further inland into Veracrúz State. No-one seems to be able to
decide on the spelling of the city either, with many buses listing the
place as Jalapa. I prefer the use of the Aztecan x,
so thats what Im going to stick with!
We arrived in the evening once the sun had gone down. We found a place
to stay with no problem and went out for a bite to eat. Most of downtown
Xalapa seemed to be either coffeehouses (not Starbucks), or internet cafés!
Its not surprising with the amount of students in the city. Many
of the internet cafés had signs up saying that remained open for
24 hours!
We ate well for breakfast it is here that my travelling companion
Rob would like me to say that the most attractive woman we saw on trip
was here. I would disagree, but Im writing this just to keep him
happy! She was the daughter of the owner of the hotel and she served us
breakfast! He would also like me to point out that hes not too much
of a lecher!
The next day we went to the citys famed anthropological museum.
This really was something special, in both design and content. They had
Olmec heads and all sorts of pre-Colombian delights. We spent about two
hours walking around the place, which took one from the early Olmec days
up to the apocalypse of the Spanish Conquest. The design of the building
was amazing too, with natural light flooding the place I dont
even like modern design much but this place was something special. Id
even go as far to say it was one of the best museums that Ive ever
visited.
In the museum we got something to eat and drink. I dont like coffee
and one would imagine that the type of food and drink served in these
places would leave something to be desired. Fortunately Xalapa is surrounded
by fields growing the stuff the coffee I drank in the museum is
probably the best stuff Ive ever had in my life! We passed a shop
selling the beans which would be pulverised for you as you waited
the smell was absolutely delicious! Its a shame that sort of coffee
isnt available everywhere. I remember the coffee in Chile being
particularly vile and freeze-dried.
We accidentally took the long way back to the hotel, which was fine as
we got to see some more of the city. The place was quite arty and had
a lot to see in the way of parks and the such. It was at that point I
realised that living in the Pachuca was not the best of ideas if I wanted
to know Mexico. Xalapa would be an excellent place to live if you wanted
to live in Mexico, but by the end of the trip I found a place even better!
At the end of the day Rob and I sat out in the main plaza and watched
the families promenading around the city centre. As it was Holy Week all
the kids had holidays and many of the parents had too. Mexico is still
a place where people get married and have children at a comparatively
young age compared to Europe so it was nice to see families out having
fun together.
So that we wouldnt have to pay for a night in a hotel we decided
to sleep on the bus to Mexico City. The plan was that if we left at midnight
then we would arrive at 06:00 hrs. We went out to the same student coffeehouse
as we were in the night before, had a big meal, watched a band play, drank
a few beers and then headed to the bus station.
Monster! (Part One) The Longest Day:
We got the bus at midnight and I tried to settle down to get some kip,
but there was some bloody woman behind me who just wouldnt shut
up. I fell asleep at about two in the morning only for Rob to wake me
up two hours later as we had arrived in Mexico City! I felt like I had
only just closed my eyes and I had to be awake again! Due to the lack
of traffic on the road at that time of the morning we flew through the
usually busy streets of Mexico City and arrived two hours early. Normally
that would be a good thing, but when youre tired, its four
in the morning, its cold and nothing is open then it doesnt
seem so positive
especially when youre in Mexico City, a
place not renowned for being the most hospitable city in the world. The
metro was shut for another hour so we had to wait there at the bus station.
Nothing was open so there was nothing to eat. We took it in turns to try
to get some sleep as the other stood guard to make sure someone didnt
try to rob us. City bus terminals can be weird places but Mexico City
has a distinct feeling of dodginess. We got out of there as soon as possible.
It was not my first time in Mexico City, but it is the first time Ive
written about it. Its simply too enormous a subject to cover in
one sitting. It is, after all, the largest city in the world! I shall
write about it some more later, but now I shall just cover the one specific
day.
As soon as it turned 05:00 hrs we took the Metro to the Zona Rosa, which
is both one of the nicer parts of town and also a gay district, though
I didnt really see much evidence of that. We bought some wretched-tasting
coffee and doughnuts and waited in the cold for the sun to come up. Then
we went into a department store to have breakfast. My body really wasnt
holding up too well and I wasnt looking forward to the idea of having
to hang around to get a bus at eleven oclock that evening to Guadalajara.
We went to Chapultepec Castle, the place where the old viceroys of New
Spain would govern. The sight was taken by the Americans during a war
in 1847. Six boy soldiers fought to the death whilst the Mexican President
Santa Anna fled. Mexicans venerate the Boy Heroes and there
are giant murals in their honour. The rest of the Castle is very much
of Nueva España period, with portraits and items of clothing from
the time. The rest of the Castle is a museum telling the story of Mexican
history up to and including the Revolution and the writing of the constitution
in 1917. Naturally they only pay lip-service to the ideals of the Revolution.
We walked down from the Castle, through the forest and beside Lago Chapultepec
and back to the Zona Rosa. Rob desperately wanted to see Manchester United
play Roma
we watched and they lost, and the place where we were
eating charged us for the cutlery that we used, thus ensuring that they
got no tip! To kill a few hours we found a pool hall and played a few
games. In the early evening we went to one of the more expensive areas
of Mexico City called Condesa in a quest to find some Guinness. We found
it but it was pricey.
We were keen to get back to bus station especially as we knew most families
would be taking time off for their Easter holidays. Nothing could have
prepared us for the horrendousness of metros, buses and the crush of the
bus station. After spending forever in seemingly stationary traffic we
made it to the bus terminal and were confronted by a sea of people, all
of whom were trying to get out of the city just like us. It was really
some of the worst planning that Ive come across in Latin America.
More and more people were pushed along by the crowd toward the buses (but
couldnt progress) as more people entered the bus terminal. Think
of the Hillsborough Disaster and it describes the situation and the crush.
Eventually man stood up with a loudspeaker and attempted to impose some
order but he was one out of thousands. Rob and I were really running on
empty at this time as we had had no sleep for about two days. Our bus
to Guadalajara left an hour later than planned but pretty much as soon
as we got out of Mexico City I passed out
thats the problem
with Mexico City it really takes it out of you (and leaves you
wanting to have a shower afterwards).
Guadalajara
(Part One):
First off, I have to say that Guadalajara is my favourite place
in Mexico (so far). Its in the state of Jalisco, and from
what I can understand that state is the jewel in the crown of Mexico.
So much of what we consider Mexican actually comes from Jalisco,
such as Mariachis, the giant sombrero, tequila, dances, spicy food,
clothes, et cetera. Not only that it but actually functions as a
city (not a Latin American lunatic asylum). The streets are cleaned
regularly, the roads are well-surfaced and the pavements dont
have the cracks and holes which can endanger ones life! Its
nice to able to walk along a street and not having to sidestep dead
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Guadalajara has reportedly the worlds largest indoor market. I tend
to take such claims with a pinch of salt, but the place certainly seemed
to have everything that you could want to buy. We wanted food and we certainly
got it! The food in Guadalajara is fantastic and served in generous quantities.
Being a glutton I was I heaven!
Even though Guadalajara is a city of over four million people, the population
come across as being friendlier, better fed and better dressed than the
rest of Mexico. At the same time it feels extremely Mexican
it
also has the best looking women in Mexico! People from Jalisco are known
as Tapatíos or Tapatías and are
renowned in Mexico for being tasty!
We took a tour around the city and its many landmarks. It has a combination
of old colonial buildings (the city was where the first government was
established during the War of Independence) and modern commercial infrastructure.
Bizarrely the English audio component on the open-topped tour-bus was
voiced by some Texan yahoo and sounded utterly ridiculous!
The place came alive in the late afternoon as the roads were closed to
cars and stalls were set up selling sweets. There were performers, clowns,
dancers and mariachis, the latter dancing and singing in their full regalia.
The place was really alive and the city had a charge to it. Later that
night Rob and I hit the town, drinking several pitchers of beer (of dubious
provenance)
contrary to what Robert may state, I would claim the
most attractive woman on the trip was the waitress who served us beer
that night.
I felt rough as hell the next morning, but instead of the usual Dermot-type
vomiting I managed to have a big molcajete breakfast, take a shower and
get the bus to Puerto Vallarta. Guadalajara is an excellent place and
if I had to live in Mexico I would live there. I left feeling very optimistic.
The Road To Puerto Vallarta (Part One):
This is where it all started to go a bit Pete Tong. I could never really
get comfortable on the bus, even though it was a top range one. The film
they were showing was awful and I couldnt get to sleep. I got up
to stretch my legs and go to the toilet
the bus was going very
fast and the road had many bends in it
the bus felt like a boat
on the sea and I knew immediately I was going to be sick. The booze I
had the night before and the lovely molcajete breakfast were now coming
back to haunt me. I ran up the aisle to the toilet and was violently ill.
Fortunately in this bus there were two toilets. With the door sealed it
seemed to me that I was on some sort of fairground ride as I was being
thrown around inside as the bus driver hurtled down hill, around corners
and bends and leaving me grabbing onto the basin for dear life. I didnt
know where up or down was and the bus would never stop for me to collect
myself. I passed out at least twice and Rob knocked on the door to see
if I was OK, but all I could do was continue being sick. After an hour
or more of blacking out and vomiting I was able to pull myself out of
the toilet and back to my seat, where I passed out again.
Puerto Vallarta
It seemed that no sooner than I had closed my eyes than we arrived in
Puerto Vallarta. I was officially a mess now, and in no fit state for
anything. Rob had come to Puerto Vallarta before at Easter time and had
found accommodation with ease, but alas it was not going to be same this
time. I was no use to either of us as I was practically dead.
We left the bus terminal and I passed out in the in shade as the sun was
so intense. It was as humid as hell too. When a bus to take us to the
centre of town arrived I got on, sat by an open window for the breeze
(or in case I needed to vomit) and promptly passed out again. The bus
took an hour to reach the centre of town due to the amount of traffic
and people there.
We went to the central plaza. I lay on a bench and wrapped Rob and my
bags around me as he went off in search for accommodation. I passed out
again only to be woken by some toothless old guy telling me that I couldnt
sleep there! I was really in such a bad way my body felt dead I
was taking everything in on a disconnected cerebral level.
Someone could have hit me and I really wouldnt have been able to
do anything about it nor would I have cared. I did though notice
that Puerto Vallarta was the place that all the good looking women from
Guadalajara go on holiday! I felt though like a quadriplegic at a Miss
World competition
Rob then came back and told me that there didnt
seem to be any lodgings. He carried on looking and I passed out again.
When I woke up again it was dark and I was being eaten by moths and mosquitoes.
I pulled myself away and fought a losing battle against them. Rob made
a reappearance and we went into the tourist information office. The woman
there kindly called around and found us a place or so we thought.
After walking to the hotel we found the person to whom she had spoken
to be drunk and that she had been joking
it was incredibly nightmarish
and my body was suffering. Rob has since described the feeling as both
chate and kicking the stool from under me whilst I was
in the gallows. We went into a shop with air-conditioning, bought
a large coke and tried to collect ourselves. We had no choice but to head
back to the bus station and to buy a ticket to wherever we could find
our appalling luck continued at the bus station as we werent
given the teachers discount and had to pay full whack.
Not surprisingly during all of this Rob was extremely worried about me.
I knew Id be OK after a day or two but Rob was ready to pull the
plug on the whole trip. He told me that if I wasnt OK within a day
he wanted me to return to Pachuca and see a doctor! We bought a ticket
to Morelia and sat in the café of the bus terminal feeling pretty
wretched and bedraggled
as it was Good Friday the television news
was showing re-enactments of the Passion around Mexico
I coldly
watched the grotesqueness of it all as people looked on with awe at the
bloody spectacle. George Orwell said that one couldnt be both a
Catholic and a grown-up
I trundled onto the bus to Morelia and
passed out.
Morelia:
Morelia is the capital of Michoacán State. It is a UNESCO World
Heritage Site but yet isnt touristy which is great when your
body had taken a battering and you need to relax. It has loads of old
buildings that have been well-preserved and any new construction has to
be done in the same Baroque style, as well as using the citys trademark
pink stone.
It wasnt so easy getting a hotel room on the morning of Easter Saturday,
but we found one and went out for breakfast. After that I went back to
the room and slept. It was a deep sleep and I needed it. Rob went out
exploring as I recovered. The city has a lovely cathedral and central
district. Despite the obvious beauty of the place, the state of Michoacán
has a lot of problems. Its the home state of President Felipe Calderón
and the scene of numerous armed confrontations between the drug cartels
and the military. Also at least two million of the states men have
had to go north for work. Its dependent upon remittances for its
economic well-being. The great fear is that once the United States has
completed its barrier stopping Mexicans from crossing the border illegally
that, as a result, there will be millions of unemployed men in Mexico
and no remittances to keep the country afloat. It will be seriously socially
destabilising.
After my deep sleep I had a stroll around the city and went to its old
market. Morelia is famous for its traditional Mexican sweets so I bought
some as presents. After that Rob and I went to the cinema to watch Notes
On A Scandal, only because the idea of going out and having
a big evening and drinking beer was an anathema to me. There was some
Easter entertainment in the central plaza (including the burning of an
effigy of Judas Iscariot that we wanted to see for its comic value) but
the show had wrapped up by the time we had left the cinema. We just went
back to our room and crashed.
Guadalajara And Tequila:
The original plan had been to go from east to west, from the Gulf of Mexico
to the Pacific Ocean and then back to Pachuca. The Puerto Vallarta debacle
had scuppered that plan. I was still very keen on returning to Puerto
Vallarta as I had heard only good things about it. Rob on the otherhand
had been there years before and didnt share my desire. A new plan
was concocted: we would return to Guadalajara and then go onto Colima
and then part ways. Rob was keen on seeing his girlfriend again whereas
I wanted to go Puerto Vallarta out of pure stubbornness! Its unlikely
that I will return to Mexico anytime soon so its important to me
to see as much as I can before the end. Somewhere like Puerto Vallarta
will probably also become a ghastly resort like Acapulco in ten to fifteen
years time so I didnt want to miss out on the opportunity. It is
known, after all, as the jewel in the crown of Jalisco.
We arrived back in Guadalajara on Easter Sunday and the place was a lot
quieter than it had been on Maundy Thursday. We went out and ate, as eating
is probably one of the best things that one can do in Guadalajara. We
had tortas ahogadas, a pork sandwich drenched in chilli. I
must say that my tolerance of spicy food has increased tremendously during
my time here in Mexico. Those sandwiches are supposed to be super-fiery
and yet I ate them with gusto! The food in Mexico is one thing I will
miss back at home.
On Easter Monday we went to the village of Tequila near Guadalajara. The
village is the home of the drink and one has pass through fields and fields
of the blue agave cactus. Its serrated triangular leaves conceal a dense
fibrous core known as the heart (like an artichoke), from
which tequila is made. Rob and I went to the José Cuervo distillery
and saw the drink being made. One could taste it during its various stages
of production as well but I was still swearing off the booze! Im
not a big fan of tequila anyway.
Colima:
Arriving into Colima on the Tuesday we were hit by the heat reminiscent
of when we were in Puerto Vallarta or Veracrúz City. It was back
to shorts and flip-flops and I vowed not to wear trousers again until
I got back to Pachuca. The other thing that struck me the most about Colima
City was the amount of pregnant women about the place. That and there
were a lot of toddlers who appeared to be of the same age as well. I have
two theories about this weird phenomenon: one is because of the volcano
that looms over the city it just must make everything and everyone
fertile! The other is that there must be some giant party where everyone
gets super-drunk and as a result the women all get knocked up. Ive
never seen anything like it!
Colima is actually the perfect place for a young family: its safe
and tranquil. There wasnt much to do in that place apart from relax,
but thats fine if youve spent ages on the road. The city is
also the home of the Xoloitzcuintles, the curious clay depictions of the
dogs which the Aztecs thought would help their souls to the afterlife.
Aztecs used to sleep with them and eat them as well as they thought they
had mysterious curative powers. They still exist today in reality as the
hairless Mexican breed that Frida Kahlo owned.
Fish was back on the menu as Rob and I spent our last evening on the trip
together. It was a chilled out evening in a chilled out place. The next
day Rob got on the bus and headed back to Pachuca, safe in the knowledge
that Manchester United had thumped Roma seven goals to one! I headed toward
the bus station to go to Puerto Vallarta.
When I got to the bus station I discovered that there was no direct bus
to Puerto Vallarta! I had already booked my accommodation after the disaster
of Good Friday and I wasnt going to be thwarted now, so I got the
bus to as far as I could go: Manzanillo. It was a short hop there, maybe
about ninety minutes or so, and from Manzanillo I got a direct bus to
Puerto Vallarta.
It seems my idea of direct and the persons who sold
me the ticket was somewhat different. The bus journey was ten hours long
and in the sort of coach that one would go on from your school to the
swimming pool in the 1980s! There was no air-conditioning and roads hadnt
been resurfaced in years. From the window I gazed out at the Pacific Ocean,
and then we went into the hills and the jungle. Im sure that there
are places more far-flung in Mexico its just that I havent
been to them yet!
We passed through villages without names where I stuck out like a sore
thumb. In the jungle around Yalapa, just up the road from Puerto Vallarta,
is where Arnold Schwarzenegger filmed Predator. As
well seeing such a remote part of Mexico I did also get to see Rocky
Balboa on the bus, that latest addition to Sylvester Stallones
contribution to civilisation and the arts. We are all in his debt for
those six films, especially the latter.
Puerto Vallarta (Part Two):
I arrived late and went to bed as soon as I arrived in the hotel. I slept
late the next day after such a gruelling trip. I actually did very little
in Puerto Vallarta as I was by myself and I was keen on just recovering
after a week on the go. In the afternoon of my first day I went for a
swim in the Pacific, thus making it from the Gulf of Mexico to the Pacific
Ocean. The waves were really powerful and had a terrific undertow
something that took me by surprise as it dragged me out. I cut up the
soles of my feet that made it rather uncomfortable to walk in my flip-flops
for the next couple of days.
The sea was alive with fish as well in Puerto Vallarta. The most disconcerting
was a washed-up blowfish! It was covered in spikes, ready to deliver its
poison. The most fantastic was that Puerto Vallarta must be the prawn
and shrimp capital of the world. They sold them everywhere in Puerto Vallarta
and cheaply too on kebab sticks on the beach or in overstuffed
burritos! I was in prawn heaven and scoffed my face for three days!
Though I was lounging around on the beach the weather wasnt that
great. It was very windy and that made the waves too big for swimming.
Also one couldnt parasail due to the strong wind. Nothing though
was going to detract from my time though relaxing, though it would have
been nice to go up to Yalapa and explore where Predator
was filmed. I wasnt able to get the sea-taxi due to waves and I
couldnt walk due to my feet being cut-up so Ill have to save
that treat until I return sometime in the future
whereupon Puerto
Vallarta will be some ghastly resort. The amount of construction I saw
going on there beggared belief. Alas I feel they are going to spoil a
very fine thing.
I left Puerto Vallarta on the Saturday and made it back Pachuca on the
Sunday, refreshed in a far better mood than when I left. The trip was
exactly what the doctor ordered.
© Dermot
Sullivan July 11th 2007
July 13th- update
Now I'm in Chiapas.Sober. It's better than Oaxaca and cheaper!
The
New 2007 Mexico Diary
Dermot Sullivan in Mexico
I am in Mexico. I often ask myself how on earth I ended up here, especially
as I was set on going to Japan.
Turning 30 in Mexico
Dermot Sullivan
I am having some trouble adjusting to the altitude. To try to get
fit I have started playing football with some of the students on a Friday
afternoon and but find myself gasping for air after only a few minutes!
Understanding Mexico
Dermot Sullivan
Mexico is a country both sure and unsure of its identity.
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