A slice of ye olde Englande
by Marianne de Nazareth
If you have never visited Ooty which is officially known
as Ootacamund or Udhamangalam, then a trip should be on
the cards when visiting Bangalore. Just catch a Volvo
bus from the KSRTC bus stand at 10 pm and you will arrive
in Ooty around 5am in the morning. Known as the “Queen
of the Hills” it is cold at 7,600 feet above sea
level and woolies are advisable at any time of the year.
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Glygarth Villa |
Since Ooty
was the watering hole of the British during the days of the Raj,
colonial mansions and manors still abound with their delightfully
stiff upper lip names like, Bournemouth, Dingle Dale, Gorse House
and Glyngarth Villa. We were booked into Glyngarth Villa a heritage
boutique hotel which is a couple of kilometers out of the main
town, for a couple of days. “ Get off at Finger Post,”
advised Shahid the young owner of the resort,” and Adrian
will collect you from the bust stand and you can walk up to the
villa.”
In the nippy
cold of half dawn we alighted at Finger Post and trundled our
overnight cases into the driveway of the villa along with a smiling
Adrian. There, rising majestically against the slowly brightening
skies was Glyngarth villa, with its turrets dramatically silhouetted
against the back drop of brooding cypress trees. A beautiful colonial
mansion built in 1850 by Sir Walter Mound, the heritage property
is a boutique hotel today to be enjoyed by those who revel in
history and the days of the Raj.
The hotel was
quiet when we arrived, walking through the large verandah with its
hat stand and up the sweeping teak staircase, to our room. A huge
brass urn filled with Freesias and blue lilies welcomed us in, along
with the smell of fresh coffee being brewed. There seemed to be
a lot of burnished teak everywhere from the wooden flooring to the
paneling on the walls.
Ours was the
nicest room in the house with a large four poster bed and an enormous
fire place. Since Glyngarth is on top of a hill the vista spreading
out before us from the bay windows was breath taking. Situated
4km out of the town this area is still untouched and retains much
of Ooty's old hill station charm. The house has just five huge
bedrooms, so clearly Glyngarth is no ordinary resort for the masses.
This is a boutique hotel meant to give visitors an authentic feel
of colonial India and a chance to live in a well maintained relic
of the raj.
The copious
use of Burma teak was the hall mark of Raj bungalows and Glyngarth
is no exception. The floors the walls, the wardrobes the fire
places are all of burnished teak imported from far away Burma.
Sit out on the lawns in the pretty garden surrounding the house
and you notice that even the front porch has been made with teak.
Shahid has added an old Hillman car perfect to the last detail
which stands in the porch and in which he takes visitors for a
spin around town. A 150 year old Oak tree dropping little acorns
stands to one side to the garden. A white picket fence puts the
final English old world charm to the place. Let your imagination
run and one can almost picture a smart carriage trotting up with
Sahebs and Memsahebs elegantly turned out driving in for a stylish
sit down dinner in the huge dining room. Sir Mounde certainly
recreated a piece of England and as the story goes, he finally
sold it to an Indian classmate at Oxford whose family still lives
in the UK and retains the deeds to the house. Apparently all the
rich and famous of the world holidayed there including Pandit
Nehru.
The baths
have been modernized with tiles and flush toilets. However old
style teak bath towel stands are still in use and one can enjoy
a hot 'bucket bath' if preferred. In the old days the jamadar
unobtrusively came in from outside to clean the toilets and baths,
so Glyngarth has a winding staircase in the turrets, which was
the servants entrance and which still exists. The dining room
is dominated by a huge table which can effortlessly seat 16 at
a time. Bakes and soups waft out of the kitchen and Shahid has
a cook who is a whiz with Anglo Indian as well as regular Indian
fare.
“When
I took over the house I had to replace over 300 glass panes of
the 450 in the house,” explains Shahid. “ The house
had been given out to film crews for shoots and they vandalised
the floors and used the rosewood shelves in the cupboard for firewood.
This has been a labour of love to bring the house up to scratch
and make it livable again.” The garden is filled with snap
dragons, roses, freesias and fushias all blooming in gay abandon.
A huge variety of birds chirrup and call all day and one can take
nature rambles down to the lush green golf course and Ooty Golf
Club.
The guest
book shows that people from all over the world have come in to
enjoy the beauty of living in a colonial mansion. “Mine
is a niche market,” says Shahid, “and only visitors
who enjoy the heritage of Ooty can enjoy Glyngarth.”
mdenazareth@yahoo.co.uk
Tariff: Off season: 1650 + taxes. In season: 1850 + taxes. Package
2 nights: off season: 3999 + taxes, in season : 4999 + taxes.
Getting there: Bangalore is the closest city to access the Blue
Mountains or the Nilgiris. The either use a taxi service via Mysore
or a direct Volvo bus. Call: Glyngarth Villa Resorts, Golf Club
Road, Finger Post, Ootacamund The Nilgiris - 643006 or email:
glyngarth@sify.com; glyngarthvilla@rediffmail.com
Website: www.glyngarthvilla.com
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