The International Writers Magazine - Our Tenth Year: Nepal

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A visit to Kathmandu, the ‘roof of the world’ • Marianne de Nazareth When I was invited for the ‘Third Pole Project: Covering Climate Change in the Himalayas from August 28th to September 2nd, 2009, I jumped at the chance as it was a project close to my heart. Over the past two years I live, eat and breathe Climate Change. It has taken over my life, I chucked up my career as Assistant Editor in a leading newspaper, I even teach a module to second year Masters Media students in Christ University, because I think if we journos don’t spread the word no one else will.

Our planet is in peril and maybe you could say, oh well who cares, it won’t affect me, I’ll be dead and gone. But, just stop in your tracks, it’s already happening out there to us, right now. It is already hitting us with water and energy shortages so, is anyone listening?

The Third Pole project was a programme organised to sensitize us journos about how Climate Change is affecting the Himalayas. The Himalayas – the pride and joy of us Indians, in trouble. There was no way I was going to miss the opportunity to go out there and find out first hand what the issue was all about.

While sitting in the New Delhi airport waiting for my connection to Kathmandu I was pleasantly surprised that the airport is wifi and you get an hour at a time to surf, chat and do whatever. I also noticed tons of ‘firangs’ (slang for foreigners) with back packs and boots, all waiting along with me. So obviously Kathmandu has not changed much since the ‘60’s and ‘70’s as a hippie hang out I thought. Except that the firangs were not the scruffy kind of the flower power era, but the better heeled ones who wore swine ‘flu masks!

While sitting in the New Delhi airport waiting for my connection to Kathmandu I was pleasantly surprised that the airport is wifi and you get an hour at a time to surf, chat and do whatever. I also noticed tons of ‘firangs’ (slang for foreigners) with back packs and boots, all waiting along with me. So obviously Kathmandu has not changed much since the ‘60’s and ‘70’s as a hippie hang out I thought. Except that the firangs were not the scruffy kind of the flower power era, but the better heeled ones who wore swine ‘flu masks!

As we touched down in Kathmandu we all had to get into a huddle to fill in Swine ‘Flu forms, to vouch for the fact that we were not sniffling and bringing in the virus to beautiful Kathmandu. After which it was a wonderful feeling to be waved in very politely by a Nepali Immigration official since I had an Indian passport which is respected in Nepal. Wow! It’s a great feeling especially since we are so used to being traumatised over getting visas to go anywhere else in the world. I mean my passport is full of visas and yet if I ask for a visa for Germany or anywhere in Europe I get exactly the number of days I am going for the conference in the country! So much for a borderless, globalised world.

Kathmandu is situated in the Kathmandu valley and has two suburbs – Lalitpur and Bhaktapur. We were staying at the Himalaya in Lalitpur and a free pick up at the airport is one of the nicest things a tired traveller appreciates, instead of being gouged by mean taxi drivers. It was also nicer to have Isobel Hilton, one of the organisers travelling on the same flight into Kathmandu with me.

As I collected my key at the reception of the Himalaya Hotel, I was told Kathmandu stands at an elevation of 1400 m and surrounded by four major mountains, Sivapuri, Pulchowki, Nagarjun and Chandragiri. At any time early morning or early evening, the mountains were always hazy, seemingly covered by a cloud. Was this the famous Asian Brown cloud which we had come to learn about, hanging over them I wondered. It was frustrating not being able to get pretty pictures of them. Brown cloud is particulate matter which is expelled from burning fossil fuels and which hang in the atmosphere causing widespread damage to our fragile planet and especially the glaciers in the mountains.

Kathmandu did not live up to its reputation of being beautiful and well kept. The roads were messy and clogged with unruly traffic and the buildings did not seem to follow any norms whatsoever. However thankfully Kathmandu does not have the autos (three wheeler public transport) that pollute our roads in India, instead they have ten seater Maruti vans which stop at intervals. Taxis are the better form of transport and though they have a meter, unless you insist it is switched on, they will haggle with you over an exhorbitant price.

However shopping is great, ‘cause the Indian rupee is accepted all over the city but, only in hundred rupee denominations. Apparently the Indian 500 and 1000 rupee are banned and visitors carrying that currency are liable to be prosecuted! You can be sure I hid mine away as most Indians carry 500 rupee notes for convenience sake.

One evening after a day at the conference we decided to take a trip to the Patan Durbar square which was a few minutes drive from the hotel. So Huma and Raina (two Pakistani journalists), along with Anna from Delhi and I, took off before dark and were stunned by the beauty of the place. Weaving along a regular road, the taxi stopped at the square which seems to be in a time warp of the 12th and 18th centuries when the palaces were built. Patan Square and its surroundings reflect ancient Newari architecture. There are three main courtyards in the square: Mul Chowk, Sundari Chowk and Keshav Narayan Chowk. Mul Chowk, the oldest one, is at the centre of Patan square. The square is a world heritage site and no wonder, the temples and statues seem so surreally beautiful. Saturday is the weekly general holiday in Nepal, so the square was full of holiday makers sitting around and probably watching us goofy tourists, snapping pictures and shooting footage with our digi cams.

We were allowed into one temple as the others had clear signs – "Only Hindus allowed’. We laboriously climbed up the steep stairs and itched to ring the lines of bells which hung around the idol. " You just watch, they will know I am from Pakistan," said Huma, and sure enough as we walked into the temple she was asked just that. I was stunned because to me Huma looked a typical Indian muslim with an elegant veil.

Photos done and since darkness had descended, it was time to break Huma’s fast. It was the month of Ramzan and she had been fasting since the morning. As we gorged on Momos and other delicacies we were treated to a stream of retro rock from a nearby bar being performed by a live rock group. An hour of Lennon, Jimi Hendrix, Queen et al and I was sure the ‘70’s are alive and well in Kathmandu!

The Prime minister of Nepal set the tone at the start of the conference we attended by saying, " We in Nepal recognize that Climate Change has become possibly the greatest development challenge of our times, and it is in the Himalayas that the impact will be severely felt. Few in the world recognize that the Himalayas which store the largest body of ice outside of the polar region, are the sources of the world’s greatest rivers which supply water to the world’s most densely populated plains," he said. " The glaciers in the Himalayas are retreating faster than any other glaciers in the world. Increased investment from developed countries and international organizations for the conservation of environmental resources of this region to address the adverse effects of Climate Change, should be the guiding spirit behind international co-operation to cope with the crisis." We sincerely hope so, as the glaciers are melting and their melt is forming lakes which are a threat to human life in the various valleys.

The whole of Kathmandu is sprinkled with Buddist stupas with their trademark khol lined eyes. So inbetween the conference at the Hyatt, we took a taxi to the nearby Bouddhanath Stupa which is a world heritage UNESCO site as well. The Stupa is massive and don’t be surprised if you are blown away by its sheer size. All around the Stupa are 140 niches in which three prayer wheels per niche are found. As you walk along one is expected to whirl the wheels for luck.

Shops line the periphery of the stupa and all sorts of Tibetan handicrafts are available on sale from key chains to brass figurines of Buddha and other deities and ofcourse the famed pashmina shawls. But don’t be misled, they are not cheap. Bargaining is the name of the game!

Kathmandu is a great place to visit for a holiday, but remember if you are looking for views of only the Himalayas preferably choose the dry, summer months, where hopefully the brown cloud dissapates. I guess I will have to go back to do that!
© Marianne de Nazareth September 7th 2009

Getting there:
There are several airlines operating to and out of Khatmandu.
I took Jet Air from Bangalore to Delhi preferably an early morning flight. Take your connecting flight to Khatmandu to reach comfortably by 6pm.
Jet Air out of Khatmandu at 4:25pm which brings you in for your connecting flight out of Delhi by Jetlight into Bangalore by 10pm. Use the airport shuttle, its cheap and convenient to and fro Bangalore airport to central roads in the city. Then catch an auto home.
Hotels:
There are a variety to suit every budget. Check them out at the information centre at the airport.
Exchange:
INR equivalent to 1.60 Nepali rupee
$ brought in 77 Nepali rupee per dollar

The Third Pole
Marianne de Nazareth
'We in Nepal recognize that Climate Change has become possibly the greatest development challenge of our times...'

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