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The
International Writers Magazine - Our Tenth Year: Bath
Breathlessly
beautiful Bath
Marianne de Nazareth
It
was the end of my two marvelous years in Europe, doing my Masters
in Journalism as a fellow with the EU. The end of looking at the
world through the rose tinted glasses of a student, funded with
a generous stipend which enabled me to travel the length and breadth
of Europe and the UK. But, there was one last wish, one last desire
to fulfill before I came home to Bangalore forever. I had to visit
Bath, in Somerset, UK.
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Bath, which is
today a world heritage UNESCO site, famous for its Roman Baths and Georgian
architecture. Bath which I have always connected with Mr Darcy from
Pride and Prejudice as Jane Austen had lived there. Bath which is pronounced
phonetically like the British and we Indians do with a rounded ah
sound and not like the Americans do. The Brits will pretend not to understand
you, should you make that faux pas!
So three of us, Cuckoo, Rose and I bought discounted tickets on the
First Great Western, British Rail, after checking on the weather of
course and sped off to Bath from Swansea, in Wales. We had to change
trains at Bristol and had the most comfortable ride into Baths
quaint heritage railway station, filled with tourists and a very helpful
information centre.
For a change in perennially rainy UK, it was a sunny day and along with
other tourists we headed towards the Roman Baths, which the city owes
its name to, on foot. Like anywhere in Europe, its better to wear stout
shoes and walk around the town you are visiting to enjoy the ambience
of the place. Considered to be the jewel in the Crown of the West country,
the Georgian buildings in Bath glowed like golden topaz as they are
all built with the honey coloured Bath stone. Small and compact, Baths
bijoux size makes it perfect to be seen in a day, like we did. Its
a walkers city, unfolding its delights round every bend and up
every tiny cul-de-sac. Tucked among the hills along the banks of the
River Avon we hitched our backpacks firmly on and walked straight from
the station towards the Baths. Fom a distance the glorious Gothic Abbey
made a great photo opportunity while tourists sat around the lawns immediately
in front just relaxing and enjoying the beauty all around. We too sat
down to devour our packed lunch of sandwiches and fruit juice while
the pigeons hung around at a safe distance, for any stray crusts that
might come their way.
Theres a romantic legend behind the founding of Bath. Apparently
it was founded by Bladud, the eldest son of the legendary King Lud.
As a boy, Bladud contracted leprosy and was banished to become a pig
farmer. One day as he was morosely watching his pigs, Bladud noticed
that some of the pigs were rolling around in the thick mud and he went
to take a closer look. The mud was hot, and he found that the marsh
was fed by a bountiful hot spring. Noticing that the pigs scurvy
had been cleared up by the mud, Bladud himself started to roll in it,
smothering his whole body from head to foot and to his great delight,
his leprosy soon disappeared. Soon he returned to his fathers
court and in time was made King. In gratitude he built a temple by the
hot spring and thats how legend has it he founded the city of
Bath.
Just outside the baths in the weak sun, were a group of buskers
serenading the tourists who sat in the sunshine eating their burgers
and dropping coins into the musicians violin cases. The prices
of tickets to enter the Baths are pretty steep, but as usual, students
get a discounted rate which is great. Along with your ticket you get
a snazzy sort of phone which you just click on and can avail of a self
help tour of the Baths. There was a choice of languages to be had and
everyone from the Chinese to the Russian tourists seemed satisfied.
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This
World Heritage city began life as a Roman spa built around its hot
springs, between the 1st and the 4th century. Soon Bath became an
aristocratic resort town. The nobility and gentry flocked there
in the bathing season to relax in the spas until seaside resorts
became more popular. We were only allowed to walk along the sides
of the baths. No dipping feet in or sitting too close to the edge
of the bath, though the bright green colour of the hot water did
not make them too inviting! The Roman Baths are below the modern
street level and have four main features, the Sacred Spring, the
Roman Temple, the Roman bath house and finds from Roman Bath. |
At the very heart
of the site is the Sacred Spring. Hot water at a temperature of 460C
rises here at the rate of 1,170,000 litres (240,000 gallons) every day
and has been doing this for thousands of years. In the past this natural
phenomenon was beyond human understanding and it was believed to be
the work of the gods. In Roman times a great Temple was built next to
the Spring dedicated to the goddess Sulis Minerva, a deity with healing
powers. The mineral rich water from the Spring supplied the magnificent
bath-house which attracted visitors from across the Roman Empire.
The Terrace overlooks the Great Bath and is lined with statues of Roman
Governors of Britain, Emperors and military leaders. The statues date
to 1894, as they were carved in advance of the grand opening of the
Roman Baths in 1897. What is strange is that the Roman Baths were not
discovered and explored until the late nineteenth century. The view
from the Terrace is the first view you have as a visitor to the baths,
but there is a lot more to the visit. The Roman Baths extends under
the modern ground level, beneath adjacent streets and squares, so many
visitors are surprised when they discover just how big the site really
is and how grand it must have been in its hey day.
For a writer Bath is a sort of pilgrimage site as well, since its
Jane Austen country. Bath is where she wrote two of her novels , Northanger
Abbey and Persuasion. Her most famous offering Pride and Prejudice is
what she is remembered most for and the dark and smouldering Darcy,
who broke my school girl heart, is brought to life in the Jane Austen
museum. All that is different today in the city of Bath from Jane Austens
1801 to 1806 is that the women who walk the streets are dressed in jeans
and tees and not flowing gowns with tightly corseted waists. The city
that Jane Austen knew was a genteel place of retirement, today its
more a tourist destination. The museum is of course tailored to interest
the female tourist with heaps of expensive Jane Austen merchandise on
sale in a sort of tea room. Everyone (read women) stands next to a life
sized statue of Austen at the entrance to have their picture taken!
All the way back in the train to Swansea we sat silently together, letting
the beauty of our visit wash over us. For me I think, Bath is one place
everyone should go to if you travel to the UK. Its beauty will
remain with you, imprinted on your memory forever.
© Marianne de Nazareth Feb 2009
mde.nazareth at gmail.com
Asst. Editor
The Deccan Herald,
Bangalore - 560025
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